Hanoi to Ha Long Bay With Uniworld

When we awoke on Saturday, we knew that we didn't have to worry about a single detail for the next 16 days. What a glorious feeling after making your way halfway around the world and wandering through streets without any understanding of the language (except "noodle soup" and "barbecued pork"). We woke up fairly early, checked out of our room around 7:15, stowed our luggage (we only took a backpack with us for the overnight on Ha Long Bay), and headed to the restaurant for another delicious breakfast.

Now that I'd had the real thing and knew how to properly eat it, I had the phở! I also snagged a bit more tropical fruit and a small glass of meusli. Then the super amazing baker came out from the kitchen carrying fresh-from-the-oven croissants, and I couldn't resist. I drizzled mine with some of the raw honey available from the breakfast bar (which also included live bees on a honeycomb).

After breakfast, we met up with the three other Uniworld guests that had booked the pre-tour to Ha Long Bay and were introduced to our guide, Hieu. We piled into a 10-passenger van for the trip to Ha Long Bay. Although it was only 100 miles away, our ride was over four hours because much of the route was through villages and towns, where the speed limit was 40 km/hr. Along the way we chatted with Jerry, Sally, and John, and Hieu talked to us about Vietnamese culture—education, burial customs, the economy, and political relations. We had a 30-minute break at a tourist trap that seemed to be the place all tour guides stop on the way to the bay.

A few things stood out to us about the ride. First, it was interesting to see the intersection of agrarian and industrial society. Much of the Vietnamese economy is still based in farming, but industry is taking hold, especially in the northern province we were driving through. We saw an enormous Samsung factory, and others that made shoes or electronics. Then we drove through a city where a coal-burning energy plant is located, and black dust covered everything. Absolutely everything. It gave the streets quite a depressing feel. Then, a few miles out of town, we'd be back in farmland. In one quiet area, Hieu had our driver stop so we could get some photographs of the farmers.

Once we arrived at Ha Long Bay, we boarded a tender to get to our "luxury junk," the Victory Star, operated by Bai Tho Cruises. We joined with about 15 other travelers on the boat from all over the world.

Our cabin, while small, was bigger than we expected, and even had a balcony.

After a few minutes of getting settled, it was time for lunch. The guests had all come as separate small groups, and those groups were seated together (so the five Uniworld guests had a table to themselves. The multi-course lunch was served family-style. It was good, but nothing like the street food we ate the day before.

one beer, wine, or soft drink included with lunch

spring rolls

stir-fried squid and celery

steamed sea bass in ginger and tomato sauce

stir-fried vegetables with garlic

fresh fruit

Around 3:30 p.m. we got back on the tender to visit a floating village.

It was fascinating—100 people live in houses that float above fish farms in a quiet part of the bay. We were treated to a 45 minutes rowboat ride, powered by the brut strength of a small Vietnamese woman that rowed constantly from a standing position.

As we passed by the "village gate," we were treated to a magical view of the bay, with limestone islands as far as the eye could see.

We were surprised to see multiple dogs in the floating houses (there's really nowhere to take them for a walk), and teens kicking a soccer ball around on the floating platform where we docked the tender.

We took the tender back to the junk, and then it was time to go swimming! Although it was cloudy and in the low 60's, Aaron and I didn't want to miss the chance to jump off the back of the boat in Ha Long Bay. So, we did—two or three times— for a total of maybe five minutes. We got great pictures, and now we can say that we swam in the Gulf of Tonkin.

We quickly rinsed off, dressed, and went to the sun deck to watch the sun set. It was absolutely spectacular.

I jumped in at the end of a spring roll-making lesson and tried my hand at it (there was definitely some room for improvement), and then we grabbed a cocktail before dinner (they kept a tab for us; only limited drinks were included with dinner, but prices were very reasonable). Dinner was served to the tables seated by groups again, although this time it was plated. They were executing classic french service, so an entire team of wait staff served all the plates at once for each course. The food was good (not earth-shattering, but pleasant to eat), and the couple behind us got an awkward U.S. pop serenade and flaming dessert because they were celebrating their honeymoon.

pumpkin soup

steamed prawn ravioli and Chinese cabbage beef salad

tiger prawns

grilled fish with passion sauce

cake duo

After dinner we tried our hand at squid fishing, but after fifteen minutes with no luck we gave up and went to bed around 9:00 p.m. We were still suffering from a touch of jet lag, so this early bedtime was welcome.

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