Self-Guided Walking Tour & Beer Garden (Prague Day 4)

Our plans this morning were to meet Kate and Jimmy for a day trip to Pilsen, but when we woke up we found out that Kate was ill and would need to lay low for the day.  So, we quickly adjusted our plans. Aaron and I started the day with a walk to the farmers market (about 5 minutes from our apartment), where we picked up some traditional Czech pastries to share with Mom and Dad. There were some other interesting items at the market we didn't get, like small-batch wine sold in 1 and 2-liter jugs and fresh, whole fish.

We then enjoyed a french breakfast at a nearby cafe, and went back to the apartment. We quickly came up with Plan B, which was to use the Prague City Walk audio guide from the Rick Steves Audio Europe app. All of us but Dad had smart phones, and Aaron had two, so we loaded everyone up and took the metro to the National Museum to start our tour.

With the exception of the awkward, cheesy banter between Rick Steves and his co-host, Lyssa, this free walking tour was an excellent way to see Prague at our own pace. It took us through Wenceslas Square, stopping at the statue of Wenceslas, the National Museum (with visible patches meant to conceal bullet holes from Soviet Soldiers during the 1968 Prague Spring), and the memorial to the victims of communism.

As we continued through Wenceslas Square, Rick pointed out the Art Nouveau exterior of the Hotel Europa, and the balcony where Vaclav Havel jangled his keys to announce the impending end of communism after the Velvet Revolution.

Then the tour took an unexpected turn. We walked into the Lucerna Arcade, and were treated to some unique Prague sights that we would not have seen if we kept to the streets.

This is a contemporary sculpture, called Wenceslas Riding an Upside-Down Horse (what a creative name!) by David Cerny. It was created in 1999.

Then we exited the arcade, crossed a street, and entered the Svetozor mall.

This window, from the 1930's, advertises an old Czech radio manufacturer (not a classy electric car).

We then exited the mall and found ourselves in the Franciscan Garden. Again, without this tour, I would have never found this place (actually, it turns out we found it on another tour a few days later, but we would never have found it while wondering the streets).

The tour even points out where the public toilets are, which is nice. :)

Now our walk took us down Na Prikope Street, which borders New Town and Old Town. If you look closely, you'll find the Museum of Communism, tucked in between a McDonald's and a casino. We didn't have time to visit on this trip, though.

Dad was looking a little weary at this point in the walk, so we stopped for a beer and a small snack.

After our break, we popped into the Municipal House to admire more Art Nouveau architecture. It really was a beautiful building.

Then we made our way through the Powder Gate towards the Old Town Square. We passed an example of cubist architecture, which is now a cubist cafe. Looking back, I wish we would have stopped in. According to Rick, the chairs are square and they serve square pastries.

Once in Old Town Square, Rick narrated a panoramic tour that just required us to spin in a circle.

Tyn Church, the leading Hussite church. The golden image of Mary was made after melting down a Hussite golden chalice when the church was converted to a Catholic church in 1620.

The status of Jan Hus (under restoration). While he was a religious leader, the Communist party used his story to support their cause.

This is right next to the Astronomical Clock. The 27 crosses mark the spot where 27 Protestants were beheaded after rebelling against the Habsburgs.

Yes, we saw the astronomical clock, but we didn't feel the need to wait around and see it chime. It's just a clock.

The tour ended with a walk down Kavlova Street to the Charles Bridge. It was mid-day and the bridge was absolutely packed. Since Aaron and I had already crossed it when it was much less crowded, and Dad was getting tired, we just enjoyed the view and took some photos before hopping a tram to go back to the apartment. Including the beer stop, the self-guided tour took us a little over 3 hours.

After a tram to the metro, we stopped for a very late lunch at an Italian restaurant, which was quite good. On our walk back to the apartment, we got up close and personal with the TV Tower, including the strange baby statues adorning it.

We took a few hours to relax (I even got a short nap!) before heading out for the evening. We split from Mom and Dad, and Aaron and I enjoyed a nice dinner in the garden of a restaurant. Beer, wine, and two entrees (goulash for him, risotto for me) only set us back $25. The prices outside of Old Town were truly amazing.

Then we set out to meet Kate and Jimmy at a beer garden playing a soccer match. It was inside a park, surrounded by chestnut trees, just like a beer garden should be. Although, one of the chestnuts came crashing down to the table while we sat there, and I was slightly afraid of what would happen if the spiky shell hit my unprotected head. Thankfully, we didn't have to experience that.

After a few beers, it was time to head back to the apartment. Another long day, but we were still loving every moment in Prague.

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